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PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB: American Style Controls

$11.95 (USD)
3.98 Ounces
Usually ships within 1-2 business days
Calculated at checkout
Max Qty
4 unit(s)

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Other Details
  • Product Description

    Note:  The Zero Delay PCB should not be used for HitBox control, as it does not possess SOCD (Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Directions) cleaning functions.  Zero Delay PCB is compatible with the Brook Super Converter: Playstation 3 to Playstation 4 USB Adapter via Brook device firmware update. It is not yet compatible with Brook Super Converter: PS3/PS4 to PS3/PS4 USB AdapterBrook Super Converter: PS3/PS4 to Wii U USB Adapter, or any other Brook PS4/PS4 converter device.

    Street Fighter V, Capcom's next iteration of the incredibly popular fighting game series, will appear on both Sony Playstation 4 and Windows PC via Steam.  For those looking to avoid the console exclusivity of this new title, and cross-play allowing for console and PC gamers to battle each other, the PC is increasingly becoming the preferred destination for fighting games.

    Likewise, the MAME community is bustling with DIY retro-style multi-game arcade cabinets, allowing you to enjoy hundreds or thousands of titles in one machine.  

    The PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB is one of the simplest and most economical ways to add Playstation 3 and PC control to a custom-built fightstick or MAME PC arcade cabinet.

    Features and Benefits

    • Common ground PCB.
    • Plug and play- includes all needed wiring for joystick and 12 buttons, with no soldering or special tools needed (plan pcb placement accordingly).
    • Available with .187" connectors (American style controls).
    • .187 connector version includes 4 joystick harness wires easy release .187 quick disconnects , plus 12 button wires with .187" quick disconnects 
    • Mode button toggles joystick input and left analog/POV hat switch input (useful for games or emulators that require one or the other)
    • Activate AUTO FIRE  or TURBO mode by pressing the desired input buttons and AUTO or TURBO button at the same time.  The Mode LED will flash as the auto fire is in use.  12Hz input frequency.

      To deactivate AUTO FIRE or TURBO, press the input buttons and CLR.
    • Users who need extra wire length can easily splice in more for buttons placed far from pcb (may be needed for arcade cabinet start/select/credit buttons)
    • Tested and works natively on Sony Playstation 3 (no home button support, use DS3 to bring up home menu).
    • No special joystick drivers needed.

    Use multiple PCBs for MAME

    MAME - or "Multi Arcade Machine Emulator" is commonly used when building multi-game arcade cabinets.  You can connect multiple zero delay PCBs together.  In MAME, each PCB will register its buttons and joystick as "Joy 1", "Joy 2" and so forth.  Building a 2, 3 or 4 player cabinet for MAME is now a rather simple affair.

    Bundle the Brook Playstation 3 to Playstation 4 USB Super Converter with Zero Delay PCBA to control the Sony PS4!New: Bundle with Brook PS3 to PS4 Adapter for Playstation 4 Control!

    Now, via device firmware update, you can use the Brook Super Converter: Playstation 3 to Playstation 4 USB Adapter and Zero Delay PCBA to play on the Sony PS4 or PS4 Pro! Both products are economically priced, and allow for incredible versatility for budget-minded joystick builders or those who already have either device on hand.

    Please note that you will need to update the Brook PS3 to PS4 Super Converter to the latest firmware before attempting to connect the Zero Delay PCBA onto the converter. To learn about PS4 button mappings, please click on the "Support" tab and look for "Brook PS3 to PS4 Super Converter Button Mapping".

    What's Included?

    • PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB (Size: 3.35"/85.09mm W x 0.37"/9.39mm H x 1.40"/35.56mm D) 
    • Joystick and pushbutton harness of your choice. Choose either "Japanese Style Control" or "American Style Control"
    • .187 connector version includes 4 joystick harness wires easy release .187 quick disconnects , plus 12 button wires with .187" quick disconnects 
    • 4 foot USB cable that connects to the PCB, and outputs to the PC.  USB extenders can lengthen to 10 feet, or you can connect to a Neutrik USB Feed Through.

    (Special thanks to Dave B. - aka PresidentCamacho - for the product suggestion)

    The PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB has several inputs for the joystick, USB, and buttons.  Use the below illustration as a guide for mapping your arcade parts to the appropriate inputs.


    Brook PS3 to PS4 Super Converter Button Mapping

    The Brook Super Converter: Playstation 3 to Playstation 4 USB Adapter now allows the Zero Delay PCBA to control the Sony Playstation 4 via device firmware update.  Please review the PS4 button mappings, highlighted in bold and blue. NOTE - The Zero Delay PCBA will NOT control PS4 WITHOUT the Brook PS3 to PS4 Super Converter:
    1. Triangle
    2. Circle
    3. X
    4. Square
    5. L2
    6. R2
    7. L1
    8. R1
    9. Touch
    10. Option
    10a. Share (press buttons 9 and 10 together)
    11. PS Button
    12. No function

    Street Fighter V Legacy Control


    Street Fighter V offers "legacy control" for PS3 joysticks via day-one update.  Please be sure to check whether "mode" on your Zero Delay PCBA is set to "joystick" rather than left analog, or joystick control will not function.

    Windows PC

    Xinput support for SFV is currently in progress by Capcom.  In the meantime, you can use X360ce (opens new window) to identify and configure a direct input controller such as the Zero Delay PCBA.  Please review this video (opens new window) for helpful guide to install and use.

  • Product Reviews


    Write A Review

    1. USA style for the Cherry Switches

      Great boards and this is the wire harness you want for your cherry switches.
      Perfect fit
      Also need these for your joy sticks:
      Spare 5-Pin Female Harness for Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB
      on Mar 1st 2021

    2. Great, but dont expect legacy support to work well.

      for 10 bucks, you get what you pay for. however, i dont mean that as in build quality. the build is superb. i just mean you get the bare basics. i tried this with: Street fighter 5, dead or alive 5 ( core edition ) , mame, and tekken 7.

      street fighter 5: at first my controller didnt register movement, but i learned you have to press the mode button. make shure the light is green. aside from that, ity works flawlessly.

      mame: works. this is probably this controllers strongsuit.

      doa 5: works. not much else to say.

      tekken 7: detects the controller, but dosent pick up any inputs, and causes input lag to every other connected controller. i've seen you can hold square at startup to get it to work, but i coudn't get that to work. as it stands, dont get this pcb for tekken.

      overall, a great pcb for the price. but dont get your expectations too high.
      on Aug 6th 2019

    3. Perfect for MAME Projects with one flaw.

      I was given the task of fixing the MAME arcade machine. Essentially it was one of those stand-up X-Arcade custom jobs done by X-Arcade themselves.

      It was garbage. X-Arcade. Enough said.

      So I rebuilt the PC, put in some iL Eurosticks, and tossed the garbage X-Arcade PCB and replaced them with two of these. Now the system plays games like a champ, and Street Fighter 3 has become a regular staple in the break room. These feel GREAT. I cannot emphasize this enough.

      Why is it not five stars? The cables used to connect to the switches. They are too short, so you really have to plan where you are going to place the PCB's. Also, they are sharp. Blood from my fingers is now a permanent part of the box.

      Game on!
      on Dec 9th 2016

    4. Simple to install, works like a charm on PC

      Wanted something easy to put into an old, broken tekken 5 fightstick I had laying around to use on PC for fightcade. Threw this in, along with some spare buttons and a sanwa stick i had laying around, and within less than half an hour, I'm playing some 2d fighters on the pc.
      Works very well for what I had intended.
      on Jun 14th 2016

    5. Confirmed this PCB works with SFV on PS4 and SFIV on PS3.

      I purchased this item recently to replace the PCB of my Mayflash stick.

      Works perfectly with SFV. You need to have the mode button plugged in and on the SFV menu go to options and choose the "legacy USB authentication" setting. If the buttons work but you get no response from the joystick, click the mode button, and this will change the joystick mode and the joystick will then work.

      I would lose it half a star if I could, since playing I have noticed a tiny bit of lag (compared to the AkiShop PS360+) on the PS4, but for $11.95 I cannot complain.

      Maybe others who have used this PCB on the PS4 may also comment if they noticed any input lag.
      on Apr 7th 2016

    6. seriously. it's twelve bucks.

      While it DOES NOT work for SFV out of the box (neither does SFV, for that matter) it is without a doubt the single best value you can find for how well this thing works. Install was cake, and I haven't noticed any lag, at all. I ran the usb wires directly to the Neutrik USB feed thru, and am running a shorter, stouter USB cable (all together, the length from board to pc is probably 6 1/2'. Seriously. Just get it. on Mar 15th 2016

    7. Perfect !

      I bought it to make an old arcade stick fully working on a windows 10 PC. It works flawlessly and is really easy to use ! on Mar 4th 2016

  • Product Videos

    • How To Build A Pro Arcade Stick - Easy Way
      I built a new arcade stick and this time I was aiming to make ...
    • X360CE and Street Fighter 5 Tutorial: Getting DirectInput Working Easily

    How To Build A Pro Arcade Stick - Easy Way

    I built a new arcade stick and this time I was aiming to make it as easy as possible. I made a wood case and used authentic arcade parts (Myoungshin Fanta lever and Sanwa buttons). I had no access to a workshop, I completed it on our balcony in couple of days work and the only power tool I used was an electric drill. This tutorial video shows how I did it. Remember I am no woodworking expert at all and I am no electric expert, this can be done by anybody. Tools include an electric drill, hole saws, hand saw, hand plane, wood rasps, sandpaper (hard and soft), clamps. First plan the desired layout. I used the Namco Noir. Plan how to cut the wood. If you are no expert don't cut it yourself. Go to the store, give them the plan and let them cut it for you. Tell them to be very accurate. You might still need to adjust the panels a bit. Use the hand plane and sandpaper. After the dimensions are right glue pieces of the frame together. I used wood glue to join the elements. Wood glue these days make a bond that is stronger than the wood itself. I used the top panel to position the support blocks. Beware not to glue the top panel yet. I marked the lines to round the edges. Round edges are not necessary BTW. I cut the edges roughly with the hand plane. It can be tricky without a fixed table but doable. I used the rasp to round the edges further. Finished with sandpaper. For the USB cable I drilled a hole first. I cut the rest with the hand saw. And used a rasp and sandpaper to soften the edges. I taped the layout on the top panel. Marked the holes with a wood screw. The pilot holes must be drilled very accurately. Sanwa buttons require 30mm holes. The Korean stick requires a 35mm hole. While drilling the wood might burn a bit so take it slow and interrupt a few times. I sanded the holes. I tested the holes with the buttons and the stick. Positioning the lever and the holes must be done very accurately. Widen the holes in multiple steps. I used threaded inserts for the M4 screws. The hole depth must be very accurately drilled or the top panel will break through. It was a bit messy but the threaded inserts are inserted and stable. One hole went through the top panel and the others got humps too so I was not accurate enough. I used wood glue and saw dust to cover the hole and sanded it. I used acrylic for the bottom panel but it is not necessary. Actually plywood would be more stable. Hole must be drilled in the acrylic before inserting the screws or it will break. I glued the top panel and the case was ready for the varnish. To sand the surfaces between layers I used a P240 grit sandpaper. You can stop here and the case is finished but I wanted a darker and shinier surface and that needs multiple layers. Sand, dust off, apply varnish, wait 24 hours and repeat a couple of times. For the last finish I wet sanded with a P2000 and P2500 grit sandpaper. Not really the result I expected so I added one last thin layer. Professionals can get a beautiful mirror surface but I think this the best I can do. The case was finished so I inserted the lever and the buttons. These are 30mm Sanwa snap in buttons but they don't need to snap. Just push into the 30mm hole and they will stay. I bought a cheap PCB (USB encoder) with prepared wires for the Korean levers (Crown or Myoungshin Fanta) and Sanwa buttons. It does not require soldering. If you have no access to a PCB like that you can always extract the PCB from a controller and solder wires to it. Check my video about the PCB soldering. Cable ties are useful to organize the cables. I used small wood screws to fix the PCB and a hook screw to tie the cord. It is important to fix the cord to something solid so you don't rip it off the PCB accidentally. I secured the bottom panel with felt pads and the case is assembled. Tested the stick and all the buttons and it is ready to use. :) Music: - Way Out West, Spaceman - Belladonna, Meltin' Guitar Check this link if you are interested how I built my old custom ardcade stick:
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