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PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB: Japan Style Controls

$11.95 (USD)
3.98 Ounces
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  • Product Description

    Note:  The Zero Delay PCB should not be used for HitBox control, as it does not possess SOCD (Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Directions) cleaning functions.  Zero Delay PCB is compatible with the Brook Super Converter: Playstation 3 to Playstation 4 USB Adapter via Brook device firmware update. It is not yet compatible with Brook Super Converter: PS3/PS4 to PS3/PS4 USB AdapterBrook Super Converter: PS3/PS4 to Wii U USB Adapter, or any other Brook PS4/PS4 converter device.

    Street Fighter V, Capcom's next iteration of the incredibly popular fighting game series, will appear on both Sony Playstation 4 and Windows PC via Steam.  For those looking to avoid the console exclusivity of this new title, and cross-play allowing for console and PC gamers to battle each other, the PC is increasingly becoming the preferred destination for fighting games.

    Likewise, the MAME community is bustling with DIY retro-style multi-game arcade cabinets, allowing you to enjoy hundreds or thousands of titles in one machine.  

    The PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB is one of the simplest and most economical ways to add Playstation 3 and PC control to a custom-built fightstick or MAME PC arcade cabinet.

    Features and Benefits

    • Common ground PCB.
    • Plug and play- includes all needed wiring for joystick and 12 buttons, with no soldering or special tools needed (plan pcb placement accordingly).
    • Available with .110" (Japanese style controls)
    • .110" connector version includes 5 pin connection harness (rotate joystick pcb accordingly), plus 12 button wires with easy release .110" quick disconnects (press small tab inside QD to release it)
    • Mode button toggles joystick input and left analog/POV hat switch input (useful for games or emulators that require one or the other)
    • Activate AUTO FIRE  or TURBO mode by pressing the desired input buttons and AUTO or TURBO button at the same time.  The Mode LED will flash as the auto fire is in use.  12Hz input frequency.

      To deactivate AUTO FIRE or TURBO, press the input buttons and CLR.
    • Users who need extra wire length can easily splice in more for buttons placed far from pcb (may be needed for arcade cabinet start/select/credit buttons)
    • Tested and works natively on Sony Playstation 3 (no home button support, use DS3 to bring up home menu).
    • No special joystick drivers needed.

    Use multiple PCBs for MAME

    MAME - or "Multi Arcade Machine Emulator" is commonly used when building multi-game arcade cabinets.  You can connect multiple zero delay PCBs together.  In MAME, each PCB will register its buttons and joystick as "Joy 1", "Joy 2" and so forth.  Building a 2, 3 or 4 player cabinet for MAME is now a rather simple affair.

    Bundle the Brook Playstation 3 to Playstation 4 USB Super Converter with Zero Delay PCBA to control the Sony PS4!New: Bundle with Brook PS3 to PS4 Adapter for Playstation 4 Control!

    Now, via device firmware update, you can use the Brook Super Converter: Playstation 3 to Playstation 4 USB Adapter (discontinued) and Zero Delay PCBA to play on the Sony PS4 or PS4 Pro! Both products are economically priced, and allow for incredible versatility for budget-minded joystick builders or those who already have either device on hand.

    Please note that you will need to update the Brook PS3 to PS4 Super Converter to the latest firmware before attempting to connect the Zero Delay PCBA onto the converter. To learn about PS4 button mappings, please click on the "Support" tab and look for "Brook PS3 to PS4 Super Converter Button Mapping".

    What's Included?

    • PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB (Size: 3.35"/85.09mm W x 0.37"/9.39mm H x 1.40"/35.56mm D)
    • Joystick and pushbutton harness of your choice. Choose either "Japanese Style Control" or "American Style Control"
    • .110" connector version includes 5 pin connection harness (rotate joystick pcb accordingly), plus 12 button wires with easy release .110" quick disconnects (press small tab inside QD to release it)
    • 4 foot USB cable that connects to the PCB, and outputs to the PC.  USB extenders can lengthen to 10 feet, or you can connect to a Neutrik USB Feed Through.

    (Special thanks to Dave B. - aka PresidentCamacho - for the product suggestion)


    The PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB has several inputs for the joystick, USB, and buttons.  Use the below illustration as a guide for mapping your arcade parts to the appropriate inputs.


    Brook PS3 to PS4 Super Converter Button Mapping

    The Brook Super Converter: Playstation 3 to Playstation 4 USB Adapter now allows the Zero Delay PCBA to control the Sony Playstation 4 via device firmware update.  Please review the PS4 button mappings, highlighted in bold and blue. NOTE - The Zero Delay PCBA will NOT control PS4 WITHOUT the Brook PS3 to PS4 Super Converter:
    1. Triangle
    2. Circle
    3. X
    4. Square
    5. L2
    6. R2
    7. L1
    8. R1
    9. Touch
    10. Option
    10a. Share (press buttons 9 and 10 together)
    11. PS Button
    12. No function

    Street Fighter V Legacy Control


    Street Fighter V offers "legacy control" for PS3 joysticks via day-one update.  Please be sure to check whether "mode" on your Zero Delay PCBA is set to "joystick" rather than left analog, or joystick control will not function.

    Windows PC

    Xinput support for SFV is currently in progress by Capcom.  In the meantime, you can use X360ce (opens new window) to identify and configure a direct input controller such as the Zero Delay PCBA.  Please review this video (opens new window) for helpful guide to install and use.

  • Product Reviews


    Write A Review

    1. Does the trick for short-term. It works as they say...

      If you need an economical PCB setup that will NOT cost as much as a new PS4 game that will work on PC and PS3, this is it.
      It has very basic functionality BUT if you want more than Start and Select in a standard joystick, you'll probably have to drill more holes for the Mode, Turbo, and Clear functions. I suggest drilling holes for 24mm buttons to save space!
      I have my Zero Delay PCB installed in a Classic HRAP and have enough space to drill 2 more buttons in back.
      I have mine configured like a PS3 PCB. I used the Windows Devices and Printer function to figure out which buttons on a standard PS3 joystick corresponded to what signal inputs and rewired the Zero Delay buttons to correspond. My top row was wired (I think) 1, 4, 6, and the bottom was 2,3,8. Note that button inputs vary according to system and even between the various generation of PlayStation consoles, the pushbuttons change signal assignments so you'll have to rewire or reconfigure games if you switch between PS2 and PS3 controllers, or a XBox or Switch controller. It's a pain but that's how it is!
      Yes, you could leave this PCB "stock" and just wire rows 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 but MAME recognizes a Button "0" and I have no idea what that is. There is enough wiring for 12 buttons but who's going to use ALL the buttons?!? There's no fighting game I'm aware of that uses more than 6 buttons and even if you do choose to install buttons for Turbo and Clear, I don't see how you're going to need more than 11 buttons. You still need separate Select and Start buttons for COIN OP 1 and Player 1 Start at least. The Mode Button is really only useful for a few games where you need to use analog left joystick instead of a digital pad which is what 95% of the fighting games made use! The only game I have where analog left joystick is mandatory is a clone of Tempest 2000, Typhoon.
      I honestly don't detect "lag" on this PCB and the joystick base I installed it in seems to perform about as well as my Hori-branded and MC Cthulu joysticks.
      Definitely the most economical PCB on the market. Incredible value with the power cord, joystick harness, and pushbutton wires. A power cord on its own would cost $4-$8 for a brand name and the joystick is $4-$5 on its own. Try finding another PCB that doesn't cost at least $24 to do the same as this one does! I don't think there IS another PCB that has all the pre-cut signal and power cord wiring you need included!
      My only concern is if this PCB continues to be useful in the future. If they change joystick standards again, you could be left with a situation like we had with the first generation Mad Catz TE Rd 1 joysticks for the PS3 which used an outdated, phased out USB standard that was not compatible with PC's and even later PS3 production models let alone PS4! I don't imagine this WILL be the case with this PCB but that's something to keep in mind. For now, it will do for most PC setups and the PS3. This Zero Delay PCB has been compatible with every emulator and game I've it with on my PC setup so far...
      on Jan 24th 2021

    2. Not good for hitboxes.

      Update from FA: Please note that the Zero Delay PCB was never designed for Hitbox control, as it does not possess a SOCD cleaner function.

      Please note, this bug happens only in d-pad mode. Analogue input mode does not exhibit this bug. That said read on:

      I've personally bought 3 of these units for various projects. The latest one I bought I am using on a hitbox controller.

      What I've come to discover when you switch the stick to d-pad mode, there is an odd bug when you press forward, down, and back simultaneously: it pushes the direction left/up. My other sticks I've used this unit on did not have this problem because they were standard joysticks with with direction input switches. It is impossible with their design to push those three directions simultaneously. I find with my hitbox that I do moves incredibly fast, and this bug is far too prevalent to consider this board for competitive on-line play on PC. It happens all the time.

      If you are playing a game like SFV with a character like G that expects you to roll the buttons out F, D, B to do his command grab, jumping backwards (or forwards) is the last thing you want him to do.

      I wish this wasn't the case. I tried my other boards of the same type and they do it too. I've tried using the 5-pin harness to hitbox converter and the standard cables included with the unit. Both exhibit the bug.

      Now this bug can be ignored in analogue mode. But its worth noting as you should be informed as to what you are getting into with whatever you buy. This is a great product with great value, but not good for Hitboxes.
      on May 7th 2019

    3. Easy way to make your own PC controller with no input lag

      Everything included, all of it easy to use. Quality parts. USB cable could be longer, but it's easy to wire up a longer one. Highly recommended for beginners or your first stick. on Jul 20th 2018

    4. Decent PCB for PC

      The 4 directional 2-pin harness slots, can be also used for push buttons instead.
      Requires to buy 4 extra .110 harnesses if you're building a Hitbox.
      Works for Tekken 7, BlazBlue but Guilty Gear Rev 2 requires a third party input program to work.
      Bought adhesive PCB feet for this but it doesn't fit. Holes too small.
      Needs extra button to switch between modes for games requiring d-input for menus.
      No soldering, cutting, crimping required, just attaching and plugging connectors.
      For Neutrik build I would preferred a shorter option for the PCB to USB cable.
      on Sep 10th 2017

    5. Good response, easy install

      Responsive, easy to use. Need to make sure the mode button is wired somewhere for compatibility (for example: Tekken 7 does not recognize left-stick in menus, mode can switch to directional pad input). on Jun 21st 2017

    6. if you cant get your stick working on ps3 try connencting a wired microswitch slot labled mode then press the button your stick is working

      easiest damn installing ive ever done on Mar 7th 2017

    7. Simple to use, Simple to setup, Perfect for RetroPie

      I have bought 2 of these PCBs to use for my arcade cabinet build (running off of a Raspberry Pi) and WOW, is this thing easy to setup.

      For the buttons, all you need to do is connect the metal end of 1 set of wire (included in purchase) to the metal prongs on the button itself. Then all you need to do is plug it into the board.
      For the arcade stick, all you need to do is attach one end of the wire to the board, and the other to the stick.

      It's so very simple to set up, there's no soldering involved.
      When using it in RetroPie, it is SO easy. It recognizes it as a controller and lets you do the built in setup with ease. When having multiple players, please make sure that it is wired the same, or else it won't work properly.

      The reason I gave it 4 stars is because:
      It is very cheaply made. When removing one of my buttons from the board, the plug it was resting in started to get pulled out with it. Also the USB has exposed wires near the plug on the board. It is very weak and if not careful, could tear off (it kinda happened to me, I had to push it back. Works fine now). I don't think this is really a problem because, once you have it all wired, you won't be touching it anymore.

      Aside from that small complaint, I highly recommend this board for people who need a fightsick PCB that will work on the PC or RetroPie (didn't try PS3).

      P.S On PC, this board is using d-input. Please keep this in mind since some games (Killer Instinct) don't work with d-input devices.
      on Jan 16th 2017

    8. Solid 4

      Its a solid 4 out of 5. It works perfectly for my ps3 (haven't tested it for pc yet), The only problem is that it doesn't have a home button for ps3. on Aug 8th 2016

    9. Great basic PCB

      If you want to start your adventure with custom sticks, this is a great pick.
      It's basic and bare bone, but works perfectly well and is dirt cheap.
      If you want to build a PS3/PC stick, look no further - this is the only board you will ever need.
      on Jun 26th 2016

    10. Works for PC kind've works for SFV

      It works for pc but when I do legacy on PS4. If you hit left, right, and down at the same time accidentally it causes you to jump up to the left.

      ** Update by FA - Though the device does work in PS3, it was not designed for use on PS4's Legacy Mode. PS4 SFV Legacy mode support is not advertised in the product description.
      on Jun 1st 2016

  • Product Videos

    • How To Build A Pro Arcade Stick - Easy Way
      I built a new arcade stick and this time I was aiming to make ...
    • X360CE and Street Fighter 5 Tutorial: Getting DirectInput Working Easily

    How To Build A Pro Arcade Stick - Easy Way

    I built a new arcade stick and this time I was aiming to make it as easy as possible. I made a wood case and used authentic arcade parts (Myoungshin Fanta lever and Sanwa buttons). I had no access to a workshop, I completed it on our balcony in couple of days work and the only power tool I used was an electric drill. This tutorial video shows how I did it. Remember I am no woodworking expert at all and I am no electric expert, this can be done by anybody. Tools include an electric drill, hole saws, hand saw, hand plane, wood rasps, sandpaper (hard and soft), clamps. First plan the desired layout. I used the Namco Noir. Plan how to cut the wood. If you are no expert don't cut it yourself. Go to the store, give them the plan and let them cut it for you. Tell them to be very accurate. You might still need to adjust the panels a bit. Use the hand plane and sandpaper. After the dimensions are right glue pieces of the frame together. I used wood glue to join the elements. Wood glue these days make a bond that is stronger than the wood itself. I used the top panel to position the support blocks. Beware not to glue the top panel yet. I marked the lines to round the edges. Round edges are not necessary BTW. I cut the edges roughly with the hand plane. It can be tricky without a fixed table but doable. I used the rasp to round the edges further. Finished with sandpaper. For the USB cable I drilled a hole first. I cut the rest with the hand saw. And used a rasp and sandpaper to soften the edges. I taped the layout on the top panel. Marked the holes with a wood screw. The pilot holes must be drilled very accurately. Sanwa buttons require 30mm holes. The Korean stick requires a 35mm hole. While drilling the wood might burn a bit so take it slow and interrupt a few times. I sanded the holes. I tested the holes with the buttons and the stick. Positioning the lever and the holes must be done very accurately. Widen the holes in multiple steps. I used threaded inserts for the M4 screws. The hole depth must be very accurately drilled or the top panel will break through. It was a bit messy but the threaded inserts are inserted and stable. One hole went through the top panel and the others got humps too so I was not accurate enough. I used wood glue and saw dust to cover the hole and sanded it. I used acrylic for the bottom panel but it is not necessary. Actually plywood would be more stable. Hole must be drilled in the acrylic before inserting the screws or it will break. I glued the top panel and the case was ready for the varnish. To sand the surfaces between layers I used a P240 grit sandpaper. You can stop here and the case is finished but I wanted a darker and shinier surface and that needs multiple layers. Sand, dust off, apply varnish, wait 24 hours and repeat a couple of times. For the last finish I wet sanded with a P2000 and P2500 grit sandpaper. Not really the result I expected so I added one last thin layer. Professionals can get a beautiful mirror surface but I think this the best I can do. The case was finished so I inserted the lever and the buttons. These are 30mm Sanwa snap in buttons but they don't need to snap. Just push into the 30mm hole and they will stay. I bought a cheap PCB (USB encoder) with prepared wires for the Korean levers (Crown or Myoungshin Fanta) and Sanwa buttons. It does not require soldering. If you have no access to a PCB like that you can always extract the PCB from a controller and solder wires to it. Check my video about the PCB soldering. Cable ties are useful to organize the cables. I used small wood screws to fix the PCB and a hook screw to tie the cord. It is important to fix the cord to something solid so you don't rip it off the PCB accidentally. I secured the bottom panel with felt pads and the case is assembled. Tested the stick and all the buttons and it is ready to use. :) Music: - Way Out West, Spaceman - Belladonna, Meltin' Guitar Check this link if you are interested how I built my old custom ardcade stick:
  • Warranty Information

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