The JLF to Agetec HKT-7300 Conversion Harness converts the controls of Sanwa JLF to the 5-pin mail connector found on the joystick PCB.
The classic Agetec HKT-7300 arcade stick for Sega Dreamcast is affectionately known as the "green goblin" for its presentation of green buttons and balltop. Enthusiasts that still play iconic Dreamcast titles such as Capcom vs SNK 2, Street Fighter III: Third Strike, or Marvel vs Capcom 2 enjoy the 6-button configuration and overall feel. However, modding the HKT-7300 for Sanwa peripherals is quite the challenge. The original joystick lever's microswitch PCB has its harness hardwired to it. Further, the controller's input pinout is different than Sanwa's, requiring a remapping of the pins.
The JLF to Agetec conversion harness removes those challenges with its 5-pin female JST connector on one end, and 5-pin female on the opposite end with wires properly mapped to directional controls of the JLF. Take the Sanwa TPMA from an original JLF along with some of its elements to create a Sanwa JLF style lever in the HKT-7300!
The conversion harness is 12 inches long, complete with white sleeving. The length was suggested in case the joystick orientation would change and more length was needed.
Please note that the instructions below refer to a TPMA-PCB replacement, rather than a full replacement of the Sanwa JLF. Sanwa's JLF joystick housing will not fit in the Agetec mount without significant modification; removing a portion of the mounting area to accomodate a Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK Joystick - or JLF without its P1 mounting plate. The P1 plate will not fit on the HKT-7300. In this instance, you can replace the original shaft, TPMA pivot and e-clip while retaining the rest of the mount that exists in the Agetec. More examples of what you can replace are listed in Step 4 of the instructions.
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|The original joystick lever sits in a plastic mount, which connects the original gate - the JLFs square or octagonal gate cannot fit as the spacing between the posts is different. ||As mentioned, this mod simply swaps the original joystick PCB for the Sanwa TPMA PCB. You can purchase one separately, or use your own from a spare Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT or SK model. You will install the TPMA into the plastic mount. However, you must flip the PCB upside down, and best done in the orientation shown here. Note that the fit is tight around the plastic posts that surround the microswitches. Use a little force to push down - you want to make sure that the TPMA's microswitches are seated atop the plastic mount with no space between them. Replace the original square gate atop the TPMA, connecting it using the tall plastic posts on the original mounting block. |
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|Attach the harness' female JST connector to the JLF's male pins upside down so it looks like what you see in the above photo. The reversed orientation of the TPMA places the ground wire (brown) at the top pin. On the other end of the harness is a 5-pin connector, which attaches to the PCB's male pins as shown here - with the brown ground wire at bottom. You can install it only in one direction. || |
With the new harness installed, you're ready to game. Some notes: First, some parts from the JLF are salvageable and some aren't. For example, you can replace the original pivot with Sanwa JLF-P-4 Pivot, shaft with Sanwa JL-S9F Replacement Shaft as well as short and extended variants. You can also replace the spring with Sanwa Sanwa JLF Replacement Spring, a 2lb Tension Spring for Sanwa JLF or 4lb Tension Spring for Sanwa JLF. You can even replace the original actuator with Kowal 1mm Oversize Actuator for Sanwa JLF Series Joystick. However, the Sanwa JLF-MW Washer is slightly larger and will not fit the housing.
You may have some luck with portions of the OTTO DIY V5 Upgrade Kit for Sanwa JLF and Hori Hayabusa but we cannot confirm those installs at this time.