Seimitsu LS-32-01-SC-K (PCB Type) Joystick with SS Plate

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1. Seimitsu's best joystick refreshed with new microswitches and long-requested shaft cover

   I've used the LS-32-01 as mainline joystick for over a decade now. My original LS-32-01 resides in an HRAP 3 SE I imported from Japan.
   I've long felt the LS-32 was a more solid joystick than the JLF and easiest to use with the stock square gate. Right now, I play with a stock LS-32 that has the one normal spring they ship with. In the past, I played with added springs to raise the tension but I'm used to stock tension and just keep the pivot area greased well.
   I was concerned with the change in microswitches but after testing the new Omron substrate I think it's safe to say Seimitsu retained the classic feel of the LS-32. I detect no huge difference between the Panasonic and Omron microswitches.
   As for concerns about how well the LS-32 fits in various joystick bases, I don't think Classic Mad Catz joystick owners have much to fear. Mad Catz took the differences in mounting alternative joysticks into account and built universal mount areas into all the Tournament Edition models. Note that you will have to use the SS Mounting plate with the LS-32 (and LS-40 by default) to ensure that the LS-32 rises to a comfortable height above the faceplate of the TE joystick base.
   For most Hori Real Arcade Pro bases, the installation of the LS-32 presents no issue... There's plenty of space for it in most HRAP cases -- HRAP V models, HRAP N editions, and the new Alpha joystick case.
   With the Classic HRAP base (HRAP 1-3, licensed HRAP and the SA/SE limited editions), there can be issues with overlap of the leftmost lower 30mm pushbutton (the "X" button in the HRAP 2/3, "L2" in the HRAP 1 and most licensed HRAPs that use the HRAP 1 faceplate minus the Turbo cutout area). The problem is with the SS Mounting plate -- it tends to project 1.5mm-3 mm past the "outer rail" of the mounting area. There are 2 solutions to this issue (which happens with HRAP 2/3). 1) Cut off the lower right corner of the SS Mounting Plate that overlaps the "X" button, 2) grind off (with a Dremel sanding barrel) about 1.5mm-2mm of the metal of the SS Mounting Plate where it overlaps the "X" button. (You only have to ground the 26-28mm of where the Mounting Plate overlaps with the button, not the entire side of the SS Mounting Plate.) I've done the former solution of cutting off the lower right corner of the SS Mounting Plate (with a Dremel cutting wheel) and attached the SS Mounting plate with the central screw-in holes. I've snaked the joystick harness gingerly to the 5-prong adapter and rotated the "X" pushbutton so that the wires don't get warped by the button.
   Unfortunately, there's inconsistency with the way the SS Mounting Plate is manufactured year to year. Sometimes, plain metal is used, other times a more chrome-looking metal is shaped into the mounting plate. I've measured and detected variations of 1-2 mm in length for the screw-in wings of the Mounting Plate. In the years I bought my HRAP 3 SE and bought an LS-32 to replace the JLF in my first Mad Catz TE joystick (2009/2010), they were more careful with the manufacture of the SS Mounting Plate and it did not stick out past the mount area under the faceplate. The wings of the SS Mounting Plates were flush with the edges of the mount area under the faceplate of the Mad Catz TE/Rd 1 and HRAP 3 SE.
   In the HRAP 3 SE, Hori modded the PCB so that the harness adapter plugs into the bottom of the lever (the 5-prong adapter of the LS-32-01 was oriented down instead of to the right as in most HRAP 2 and 3's) to avoid the contortion act needed for the regular HRAP 3 and HRAP 3 SA models. GeorgeC on Nov 25th 2022

2. An Easy Favorite for Me

   An extremely well rounded tactile joystick that I enjoy miles more than the Sanwa JLF and Hayabusa. After noticing a huge improvement in my motion inputs in fighting games, I ended up replacing most of my levers in my collection with either this or the LS-40. It's just more authentically tight than a JLF with a swapped spring. I do usually make sure i remove the weird sub-plate once putting it in though.
   Fair warning, it necessarily doesn't as easily in joystick cases as the JLF but it fits in more things than one may expect. It definitely fits in the Madcatz TE and TE+S, Fightstick Pro, probably every Hori RAP model, if that's of any help. Eben Selker on Apr 20th 2019

3. Get this if your looking to try a new joystick!!!

   Replaced the Sanwa JLF stick that came stock on my te2. I have to say, the LS-32 feels so much better! I had problems with the washer in the JLF that the actuator sits on top of where it would keep popping off the little groove it sits in. This would mess up my inputs. I had to super glue it to keep it flat and centered. The LS-32 doesn't have to worry about that problem. What I like most about this stick is the shortened throw range, really good for air dashing fighting games like Guilty Gear and Blazblue. Especially when you like to quickly feel the gate when double tapping. LS-32 just naturally feels more tighter and responsive. The shaft is shorter than the JLF so I was worried it was going to be too short and low for my hands. The SS mounting plate actually raises the stick a bit, so it's actually about the same height as the JLF when installed. Would highly recommend the LS-32! Don't think I will ever go back to Sanwa joysticks.. Sanwa buttons are the best in my opinion, but when it comes to joysticks, I honestly feel the LS-32 is king! Yo on Oct 14th 2017